Honeymoon (Part 2)
Today we left the wonderful Newpark House and headed towards Dingle (yes I'd change my name too - there's a bit of a scandalous history to the name of this place - look it up..).
Before we got into Dingle (and as per one of our hosts from Newpark, Declan) we stopped at the village of Adare. Adare is know for it's thatched-roofed cottages. What an absolutely wonderful town. We had a nice lunch there and I just really enjoyed the feel of this place. Peaceful and scenic.
Anyhow Dingle is a far cry from the cosmopolitan feel of well just about anywhere. Backwoods but beautiful is what comes to mind - the website with local info can be found here ...
After the busyness of Galway Dingle was much more serene. The roads, though heaven, driving through the roads to get there is nerve-racking and I am not the one doing the driving.
We landed at the local farmhouse where we were staying and I have to say I was a bit unimpressed (not to be rude - still...) - our hostess was as polite as was required - no more, no less. The room small the bathroom - well let's just say if you were obese you'd have had a difficult time.
We wanted to go grab a meal and our hostess suggested a local restaurant (Thady's). we headed down to this place and it was a cute little seaside restaurant. We went in and each ordered a glass of wine and then commenced what was probably one of the worst eating experiences of our trip. We decided we would share a dish (something I only have done with Erin and something I treasure because sometimes I don't want to eat a huge meal just for me) - we were informed by our teen-aged waitress that we were not allowed to share a plate of food. OK. Fine. So then I ordered a salad (a Cesar salad with salmon) but i was told I was not spending enough money - I had to spend at least 14E to eat anything at all...by now I was a bit upset, not to mention they didn't accept credit either (well OK I get this bit) - and, I am not trying to be difficult here - but what the hell - you are running a restaurant in BFE Dingle, Ireland and you are going to shove arbitrary rules at people who want to pay you to eat at YOUR establishment - yeah OK blow me...so we left - but not without telling another American couple about what happened and keeping them from entering the place (score 1 Americans, 0 Dingleberries)...
We headed into Dingle proper to find a pub and some real food. Dingle is a sea side town filled with pubs and shops, ships sailing out to sea on the cold North Atlantic - you can almost hear the shantys being sung by long-dead sea captains and the siren call of mermaids.
We walked the quay and settled on one of the more 'populated' pubs. We proceeded to order a 'fisherman's feast' AND no one said a word to us about sharing the plate. This had to be the freshest fish I have ever had in my life. The smoked salmon was to die for. Everyone in the pub was watching the matches and cheering - jeering and enjoying their pints. We ate and then wandered around Dingle. We stopped at a little local gift shop which was selling some really lovely items. We began walking up the side streets and found a local realtor office that had pictures of properties for sale and prices. Erin and I had been trying to figure out the economic scale since landing (partially because we'd love to live abroad one day) - the cheapest house shown was about $250,000 Euros. During our time standing and looking at these properties, a man stopped to look as well - he struck up a conversation with us. James as it turns out was a former local who now lived in France - but he still owned a home here in Dingle - peppering the conversation with 'fuckin' hell' he was bemoaning the price of real estate. What a wonderful conversation with a really fun guy (had I been thinking straight, I should have offered to buy him a pint) he had worked on the seas fro some 25 years and was now going to have to sell his home here. I was on cloud 9 because not only did I get to have a conversation with a local and hear some of his life story and globe-trotting adventures, but I got to practise my francaise in a speed I could deal with because of course James had to know some French as well. We wandered around more, went back to the pub, and after the match was over the locals gathered to play some music. We sat for a bit longer and then headed back to the farmhouse to get some rest. I begin to notice that in these small 'farming' communities you can't seem to spit without hitting a B&B. I begin to wonder about the economy and why these people are doing this - but it would not be until the next town/place we stayed where I really began to reflect on what would cause such a family to open their home up to strangers thus becoming servants themselves.
The next morning we had a really wonderful breakfast (scrambled eggs and more of that wonderful smoked salmon). We managed to find out where my ancestors actually came from in Ireland (County Clare - but they also settled in Limmerick). Erin also inquired about some ruins we could spot from the house. Our hostess informed us that the ruins could be found up the road and were on another farms property - we would need to drive up there and ask permission. We did so and the woman at the farm house obliged us but only after paying 2 Euros a piece. This upset me a bit (and I will relay my ire about money-changers in temples a bit later) - I can certainly understand and appreciate paying to see some sites because of upkeep etc but these were ruins - nothing to upkeep here - sure it's your private property but well, whatever - and, as if hearing my thoughts, God in his mercy arranged for me to step directly into a cowpie (that like the idiot I am - I mistook for a rock LOL).
Before we headed completely out of Dingle we went to take a walk along the beach (we had originally wanted to ride horses - especially on the beach - but alas the place to rent horses wasn't open that morning - I did however get to meet an old(er) beautiful border collie).
The views on the beach were splendid and we really had a nice time walking together, gathering sea shells and talking.
There is no one I can think of I'd rather have been spending this time with other than Erin - he is the love of my life and despite everything - even the frustrations this has been a wonderful trip.
We left Dingle to head towards Cashel. This trip has been a bit of a pilgrimage for both myself and Erin (as well a journey of discovering more about each other and more about ourselves as individuals) - as you can see from the pictures in the links I am sharing - from the ancient ruins, to the ancient churches, there's a certain beauty to this place. Here's the link to days 3 and day #4. It is in this land of my ancestors where I first hear the ringing of the noontime Angelus bell and get a true feel for these people, their piety and devotion to God - the fact that I get to share these sites and feelings with my husband is an even greater blessing.
(For now I am going to take a break form journaling as I need to tend to chores and my new family - I promise to finish up the trip in depth tomorrow. Blessings and much love to you all - C~)
Before we got into Dingle (and as per one of our hosts from Newpark, Declan) we stopped at the village of Adare. Adare is know for it's thatched-roofed cottages. What an absolutely wonderful town. We had a nice lunch there and I just really enjoyed the feel of this place. Peaceful and scenic.
Anyhow Dingle is a far cry from the cosmopolitan feel of well just about anywhere. Backwoods but beautiful is what comes to mind - the website with local info can be found here ...
After the busyness of Galway Dingle was much more serene. The roads, though heaven, driving through the roads to get there is nerve-racking and I am not the one doing the driving.
We landed at the local farmhouse where we were staying and I have to say I was a bit unimpressed (not to be rude - still...) - our hostess was as polite as was required - no more, no less. The room small the bathroom - well let's just say if you were obese you'd have had a difficult time.
We wanted to go grab a meal and our hostess suggested a local restaurant (Thady's). we headed down to this place and it was a cute little seaside restaurant. We went in and each ordered a glass of wine and then commenced what was probably one of the worst eating experiences of our trip. We decided we would share a dish (something I only have done with Erin and something I treasure because sometimes I don't want to eat a huge meal just for me) - we were informed by our teen-aged waitress that we were not allowed to share a plate of food. OK. Fine. So then I ordered a salad (a Cesar salad with salmon) but i was told I was not spending enough money - I had to spend at least 14E to eat anything at all...by now I was a bit upset, not to mention they didn't accept credit either (well OK I get this bit) - and, I am not trying to be difficult here - but what the hell - you are running a restaurant in BFE Dingle, Ireland and you are going to shove arbitrary rules at people who want to pay you to eat at YOUR establishment - yeah OK blow me...so we left - but not without telling another American couple about what happened and keeping them from entering the place (score 1 Americans, 0 Dingleberries)...
We headed into Dingle proper to find a pub and some real food. Dingle is a sea side town filled with pubs and shops, ships sailing out to sea on the cold North Atlantic - you can almost hear the shantys being sung by long-dead sea captains and the siren call of mermaids.
We walked the quay and settled on one of the more 'populated' pubs. We proceeded to order a 'fisherman's feast' AND no one said a word to us about sharing the plate. This had to be the freshest fish I have ever had in my life. The smoked salmon was to die for. Everyone in the pub was watching the matches and cheering - jeering and enjoying their pints. We ate and then wandered around Dingle. We stopped at a little local gift shop which was selling some really lovely items. We began walking up the side streets and found a local realtor office that had pictures of properties for sale and prices. Erin and I had been trying to figure out the economic scale since landing (partially because we'd love to live abroad one day) - the cheapest house shown was about $250,000 Euros. During our time standing and looking at these properties, a man stopped to look as well - he struck up a conversation with us. James as it turns out was a former local who now lived in France - but he still owned a home here in Dingle - peppering the conversation with 'fuckin' hell' he was bemoaning the price of real estate. What a wonderful conversation with a really fun guy (had I been thinking straight, I should have offered to buy him a pint) he had worked on the seas fro some 25 years and was now going to have to sell his home here. I was on cloud 9 because not only did I get to have a conversation with a local and hear some of his life story and globe-trotting adventures, but I got to practise my francaise in a speed I could deal with because of course James had to know some French as well. We wandered around more, went back to the pub, and after the match was over the locals gathered to play some music. We sat for a bit longer and then headed back to the farmhouse to get some rest. I begin to notice that in these small 'farming' communities you can't seem to spit without hitting a B&B. I begin to wonder about the economy and why these people are doing this - but it would not be until the next town/place we stayed where I really began to reflect on what would cause such a family to open their home up to strangers thus becoming servants themselves.
The next morning we had a really wonderful breakfast (scrambled eggs and more of that wonderful smoked salmon). We managed to find out where my ancestors actually came from in Ireland (County Clare - but they also settled in Limmerick). Erin also inquired about some ruins we could spot from the house. Our hostess informed us that the ruins could be found up the road and were on another farms property - we would need to drive up there and ask permission. We did so and the woman at the farm house obliged us but only after paying 2 Euros a piece. This upset me a bit (and I will relay my ire about money-changers in temples a bit later) - I can certainly understand and appreciate paying to see some sites because of upkeep etc but these were ruins - nothing to upkeep here - sure it's your private property but well, whatever - and, as if hearing my thoughts, God in his mercy arranged for me to step directly into a cowpie (that like the idiot I am - I mistook for a rock LOL).
Before we headed completely out of Dingle we went to take a walk along the beach (we had originally wanted to ride horses - especially on the beach - but alas the place to rent horses wasn't open that morning - I did however get to meet an old(er) beautiful border collie).
The views on the beach were splendid and we really had a nice time walking together, gathering sea shells and talking.
There is no one I can think of I'd rather have been spending this time with other than Erin - he is the love of my life and despite everything - even the frustrations this has been a wonderful trip.
We left Dingle to head towards Cashel. This trip has been a bit of a pilgrimage for both myself and Erin (as well a journey of discovering more about each other and more about ourselves as individuals) - as you can see from the pictures in the links I am sharing - from the ancient ruins, to the ancient churches, there's a certain beauty to this place. Here's the link to days 3 and day #4. It is in this land of my ancestors where I first hear the ringing of the noontime Angelus bell and get a true feel for these people, their piety and devotion to God - the fact that I get to share these sites and feelings with my husband is an even greater blessing.
(For now I am going to take a break form journaling as I need to tend to chores and my new family - I promise to finish up the trip in depth tomorrow. Blessings and much love to you all - C~)
posted by Colette at 1:03 PM
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